Spring Summer 2019 Fashion Show
“Vanitas. Vanity, in nature, is a masculine attribute. This is the topic of the second chapter of my ongoing tale for Pal Zileri, a gallery of portraits seen through the filter of the virtues that inform the way the men I have in mind are, and the way they appear.
Vanity, so deeply rooted in contemporary narcissism and in the pervading cult of personality, is a vice that stems from the distortion of a noble virtue: the awareness of self-determination, taken to the extreme of blind self-obsession.
I shattered the mirror, putting it in the center of a cloister to suggest a different point of view and a path that privileges, as monks do, the interior dialogue with oneself. Mine is an invitation to simplify and resize, built thinking of the olfactory pyramid of a perfume – an instrument of vanity – and the laboratory in which it is created.
The olfactorium is a place saturated with stimuli in which raw materials express their strength and vigor, and then are added up one to the other to create new sensations.
The collection follows the same path. It is an orchestrated movement of surfaces, textures, motifs and materials. It adds the shiny luster of silk to the coarseness of linen, floral motifs to the madras checks based on original patterns of the nineteenth century. It draws a chromatic evolution that starts from the warm tones of earth and spices to expand into an escalation of greens and blues as reflections of vegetation over the water.
The soft silhouettes are accentuated by the accessories, in a logic of endless de-composition and re-composition. The clash of elements draws a stratification that favors the melting pot as a unit of measurement. All of it, with the edit of my point of view. I love starting from plural stimuli to achieve clarity without forsaking multiplicity. As it happens with a fragrance, in which the dominant note sits on a harmony of innumerable ingredients.
Rocco Iannone, creative director Pal Zileri.